I'm proud to once again be a judge and ambassador for Children's Reading Festivals UK. We're aiming to have a fully playable version for the Leeds Games Expo in April. I will post more updates and progress pics on the Putty CAD Games page here. I've also been working with Rich who has made great progress with bringing together a new more arcadey version of Zombie Piranha. I'm not going to tell You how much Glazing putty, is in the finish of My 49' Ford.Things are moving forward with more book and illustration projects coming together for 2017. Also remember that Toluene is hazardous to Your health, so be safety wise when using a large amount.Īlso helps a lot, if You sand the area around where You want the putty to be.sticks way better.unless You are putting it over primer.which is what it is made for. Most of those putty's contain Toluene and that is what separates when lying around. Just remember to not put more than a 1/8'' minimun on anything. and never had any problem's with it, on plastic's, resin's, even Pewter and some white metal castings, which if it is a deep gouge, like there are in some of the castings, I prefer to use Evercoat Glazing spot putty.also been using that for yr's. Been using that particular brand for quite a few yrs. That's why the Sqaudron appears to come out dry, need's kneading of the tube.
Do that a couple times and it should be good to go.
When You get liquid coming out, put the cap back on tightly and knead the tube, starting at the very bottom where the seam is and work your way about to the top, with Your thumb and forefinger. Little tip to using those spot puttys that are in the metal tube. If I was buying a new supply today I would buy the automotive glazing putty. The Tamiya seems to be the hardest of the bunch. It will stiffen up over time but styrene solvent glue will make it moist enough to work with.Īll three sand down just fine. Automotive glazing putty comes in a rather large tube, i.e. If you put a huge blob of the stuff on styrene it will soften the styrene, so if you have a large void to fill it is best done in thinner layers. The automotive glazing putty has worked the best for me with a caveat. The Tamiya goes on just fine but it does shrink enough that a second or sometimes a third application is required even on very fine joints.
I apply a bit of styrene solvent cement to the putty after it is first applied and that cures the issue. I have only had experience with one tube. It has done that since the tube was new, so I don't believe the age of the product is an issue but I could be wrong. You can put it one with the first stroke but when you make a second stroke to smooth it out it pulls back off the surface. It doesn't stick well to the surface being repaired but it sticks just fine to the artist's spatula that I use to apply it. The Squadron green putty was the worst of the bunch. I haven't tried the Squadron white putty. I have used standard automotive glazing putty, Squadron green putty and Tamiya's white filler.
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